Exterior painters in Carlton 97111
November 30th, 2015
Pesticides and paint don’t work well together
This exterior paint project was unique due to the circumstances for it needing to be painted. The homeowner called Painting Oregon because she had recently had an exterminator company come out and the chemicals they had used discolored her shingles and fiber cement siding.
When we arrived in Carlton we found bleach like stains anywhere the pesticide had touched the house or the stain cedar shingles. Unfortunately, the majority of the pests were in the eaves so nearly all surfaces below the eaves had some discoloration. The cedar shingles at the gables in the front of the home were in the worst shape. With what would appear like sun bleached areas, where the shingles meet the eaves. The shingles had not been stained or treated with any protectant for over five years which allowed the pesticide to penetrate the wood and create the discoloration. After our initial walk around we found failed caulking in the usual areas on a fiber cement siding home (butt joints and corner boards).
Due to the bleaching of the cedar shingles on the front of the home we had to bleach/brighten all of the shingles to make the color of the shingles look uniform. In order to brighten natural cedar shingles we need to apply a brightening product. Typically, these off the shelf brighteners have a combination of bleach and TSP (trisodium phosphate) in them that will brighten/bleach the surface that is getting applied to it. For this project we trusted Benjamin Moore and their product Brighten to take care of the job.
Follow these six steps to brightening your natural wood surfaces for a new coat of stain:
Step 1: Protect all yard furniture, fixtures, and any other areas that could be affected if getting a bleaching solution on it.
Step 2: Wet down with water all areas around the area you will be brightening like vegetation, concrete, or any other areas that you would not tannin and stain from the shingles running down.
Step 3: Apply the brightener using the ratios noted on the product data sheet. You can apply the Brighten through a hudson sprayer, by brush and roller, or through a pressure washer soaper attachment. This is a somewhat messy process so be careful about how you apply the brightener as it can add many hours of clean-up and touch-ups if not applied properly. Now that you have applied the solution you will want to wait five to ten minutes to let the solution work its magic. Do not let the solution dry out on the surface, if the solution seems to be drying out give it a light spray of water to keep it damp.
Step 4: Use a stiff bristle deck scrub brush to agitate the solution on the surfaces you are brightening. This step requires a lot of “elbow grease” to complete but is the most important. The reason being that the brightening solution has broken down any existing coating or mill glaze sitting on the top of the surface, and now you must scrub it off…not really scrubbing off but working the product into the pores of the wood.
Step 5: Now that you have completed the brightening you are ready for a water rinse. If you are using a power washer be careful of applying to much pressure or being to close to the surface as the wood will be soft at this point. We are just looking for a good rinse of wood fibers and the tannin colored water. If you have white trim boards or painted surfaces under the area you are working you can expect to get some staining during this process.
Step 6: Clean-up all items and allow the wood to dry out for a couple days. Dry time of the surfaces brightened will vary dependent on the temperature outside.
Now, that the shingles prep work has been completed it was time to start prepping the rest of the house. We removed caulking from butt joints, window trims, and corner boards and replaced it with Sonneborn VLM 150 caulking. VLM 150 is a urethane-water hybrid elastomeric caulking that allows for the most expansion and contraction of joints. Due to the pesticide staining and the tannin staining from the brightening process we spot primed using Sherwin-Williams ProBlock primer to block out any stain.
We were ready to start painting. After masking the gables of shingles we had brightened, windows, and roof we started applying colors. Important Tip: if you have natural wood on your home and you will be spraying paint. Mask the wood first, do all of your painting first, then stain your wood surfaces last. Once you apply stain a protective coating will not allow tape to stick.
The home owner liked her current exterior paint color scheme so we were going to be painting the same colors. Sherwin-Williams Toasty (SW 6095) is the body color and Whole Wheat (SW 6121) is the trim color. The only other color decision was the stain color for the shingles. We use Penofin Red Label semi-transparent stain for most stain projects. The owner decided on Western Red Cedar for the stain color.
We started this project on August 20th, 2015 with power washing and shingle brightening. We allowed the house to dry out for five days and then returned. Over the five days the temperatures fluctuated between 90 degrees and 78 degrees. Prep and painting took just over seven working days, although do to foggy humid weather conditions in Carlton this project stretched out over three weeks. Fog is a painters enemy just like rain. The reason being that moisture gets trapped under the coatings that we are applying. This causes bubbling and failures to appear.
How much does it cost to paint and stain an exterior home in Carlton, OR?
The project cost was $7,200.00
It was expected to take 7-8 days and due to weather stretched out for nearly three weeks. Although, we were on site working for only eight days.
Does your home in Carlton need painting or staining?
Give us a call for a free estimate.